From Axum to Hart Plaza

Part 5 of 13 in our journey from Timbuktu to Kalamazoo
(connecting landmarks in Michigan and African history)

Antoine de la Mothe Cadillac makes his way along the Detroit River (known to the French as the strait of Lake Erie) searching for a point to land. It's 1701 and he chooses a position where the channel is about one-half-mile wide and his cannon stand "one gunshot across" the river. On this spot he founds Fort Pontchartrain du Détroit.

Fort Pontchartrain in 1701

For the next hundred years, the small fur trading settlement and military garrison would struggle to thrive, withstanding occupation by the French, the British (who take control in 1760 during the French Indian war), Native Americans (who lay siege to the Fort in 1763 during Pontiac's Rebellion) and finally the Americans (through the Jay Treaty of 1796). In fact, in 1805 the entire city burned to the ground except for a river warehouse and a few brick chimneys. In a period of peace between the French and British, the French actually voted to abandon the fort. The order was thankfully never executed. However, Cadillac's dream of displacing Fort Michilimackinac and trading posts to the north as the capitol of fur trade all but died particularly because of its inaccessibility both by land (connections to Toledo were frequently in passable) and water (lake Erie was considered by many more dangerous than the Atlantic).

Detroit riverfront in 1820

But the fortunes of the settlement suddenly changed because of two events in the early 1800s. First, in 1818 the first steamboats began to regularly appear on Lake Erie. Now scheduled trips from Buffalo to Detroit could be achieved (something that sailing vessels driven by the wind had never been able to accomplish). Second, the Erie Canal was completed in 1825 by the state of New York. The canal linked the Hudson River to Lake Erie and the port towns of the Great Lakes. The canal, along with the Great Lakes steamers, offered an inexpensive water route by which to move settlers and their possessions westward and the fruits of their labor eastward to market.

Detroit Fire of 1805

Woodward's Detroit Plan

1807

Shortly after the fire of 1805, Woodward laid-out a new plan for the City, modeled after Pierre Charles L'Enfant's plan for Washington DC. The land was sub-divided and in 1818 first offered either for sale or as compensation to those who lost property in the fire. Detroit's population swelled and its economy transformed itself from fur-trade, to agriculture and to finally manufacturing. By the late 1800s, major manufacturing facilities occupied the Detroit riverfront. In 1870 came Parke-Davis, in the 1890s came the Frederick Stearns Company, in 1888 came the Globe Tobacco manufacturing facility and in 1860 came the Detroit Dry Dock Engine Works (where Henry Ford would work as a young engineer). 

The Detroit Riverfront circa 1950
Pre-Civic Center Development

By the early 1900s, Henry Ford's automobile industry became king. It drew tens of thousands of new residents, particularly workers from the south, making Detroit the US's fourth largest city. At the same time, tens of thousands of European immigrants located in the city. But the requirement that industry be centrally located along the Detroit riverfront was no longer necessary. Railroad, truck and air transportation, if not equaled, outpaced water travel. By the end of World War II, the old riverfront industries begin to abandon the Detroit riverfront.

 

Hart Plaza

In 1947, Eliel Saarinen and his son Eero, developed a master plan for a new Detroit civic center which incorporated restoring public access to the riverfront. Construction began in 1950 with the Veterans Memorial Building (Today's Ford/UAW Building). The Saarinens' original vision for the waterfront was "as a predominantly green sweep of lawn and naturalistic tree clusters gently terracing to the river." The actual hard surfaced 14 acre plaza deviates considerably from this vision. 

Isamu Noguchi's Pylon

But despite these changes, in 1975, on more or less the site at which Cadillac landed, Philip A. Hart Plaza opened. Named for the late U.S. Senator Philip Hart, it marks the intersection of the southernmost terminus of Detroit's main north-south boulevard, Woodward Avenue, and the Detroit river front. Although Isamu Noguchi's Horace Dodge and Son Memorial Fountain is the center piece of the plaza, a second Noguchi piece known as the Pylon stands at the intersection. Set on a low rectangular plinth, the obelisks rises 120 feet in joined polished steel sections, subtly making a quarter turn as it reaches it full height. Its bright and reflective surface mimics the cylindrical towers of the Renaissance Center (now GM World Headquarters) that form the Pylon's backdrop.  

A stelae field in Axum

The tradition of marking places of significant importance with obelisks can be traced to many cultures. One of the oldest traditions can be found in Axum, Ethiopia. Here you will find remnants of what Ethiopians call "hawilt/hawilti" or stele. It is here you will find what is believed to be an ancient burial ground for the royal class of the Kingdom of Aksum, where tombs are marked by a field of more than 120 stone carved stelae dating back to 300-500 AD. Each stelae are carved from a single piece of granite and stand as high as 82 feet (the tallest stelae of 108 feet appears to have fallen shortly after it was erected).

The rounded peak

False door at the base

But what is most interesting about these stelae is how they are carved. For like the Noguchi Pylon which dances in the horizon with its neighboring modern skyscraper, these Aksumite stelae are themselves meant to represent ancient skyscrapers up to thirteen stories in height. Although actual Aksumite buildings probably never exceeded a maximum of three stories, they are accurate representations of how taller structures would have been built. The stellae have representative stone doors carved at their feet simulating wooden ones, some even incised with locks. Further up the monoliths, false four-holed windows have been hewn into the rock. Timber, used widely for structural support, is recalled by the false square beam-ends that project as if serving a functional purpose through the stelae "walls." The stelae terminate in rounded peaks marked with fixing holes that once held nails, possibly intended to fasten symbolic icons.

So if you find yourself gazing up at the Pylon in Hart Plaza while enjoying one of its many festivals and/or celebrations, remind yourself of the ancient Ethiopian tradition of building stone carve obelisks known as stele that represent possibly humankind's first attempt to build skyscrapers.